More than 150 Exclusive Fabrics
Our constant search for the finest
fabrics has resulted in an unparalleled selection of shirt
fabric options in solids, plaids, checks, stripes and micro
patterns in the finest pure double-twisted100% Egyptian cotton
or linen, and in varying weights. Soft, brilliant and durable
In our Custom Shirt Shop you
will find our fabric collections conveniently arranged by
design (plaid, stripes, etc.), by texture and by fiber, as
well as by some limited edition and other specially-priced
fabrics. All of our shirt fabrics can also be specified for
matching custom pocket handerchiefs in our Accessory
Come in and have a look and then design the shirt or accessory
you've always wanted. Our Italian artisan tailors sew it just
for you and we'll deliver it right
to your door, anywhere in the world.
View the Holl Fabric Collection
Holl Guide to Shirt Fabric Types
In general most shirts today are produced from fabrics made
of cotton. More sporadically we find shirts of other fabrics such
as linen, cashmere, wool, silk and hemp.
The term cotton comes from the Arabic katun that means "conquered
land" referring to the empire of Alexander the Great that promoted
the diffusion of cotton in the Mediterranean area.
A vegetable fiber, it is obtained from the cotton plant, a shrub
with lobe shaped leaves and large flowers of white, yellow or red.
The dry fruit at maturity is a capsule that opens in five lobes
revealing the seeds covered with thick white "wool" comprised
of unicellular fibers of nearly pure cellulose. After the fibers
are separated from the seeds the cotton is cleaned and combed to
Cotton is the fabric from which 90% of men's shirts are produced.
This is due to the characteristics that make it well adapted to
be in contact with the skin. It is a fiber which is soft, light,
allows the skin to breathe, has a good capacity to absorb and is
capable of surviving many washings. It takes color very easily and
retains it well.
In commerce cotton is classified based on the criteria for judging
its quality which are the grade, the color, the length of the fiber
and the character.
GRADE is the external appearance which is determined
based on the luminosity of the fiber, major or minor, the white
color more or less intense and on the minor or major presence of
extraneous substances in the cotton.
COLOR varies greatly from a more or less immaculate
white to a gray characteristic of cultivated cottons, but also colors
tending toward red, chamois and yellow. The whiteness of the color
determines the subsequent processing and the possibility of obtaining
a quality yarn.
LENGTH of the cotton can be long fiber or short fiber;
the first beginning at about 28 mm (1.01 in.) up to a length of
50 mm (2 in.) The others can have maximum length of 18 mm (0.71
in.). There exists also a category of cotton produced in the United
States that reaches an intermediate length relative to the others
and which constitutes the major part of the global cotton production.
CHARACTER is an attribute connected to the origin,
variety and maturity. In practice, it is the robustness of the fibers,
the resistance to traction and breaking, uniformity, coarseness
Cottons are classified in these ways:
A light fabric suited to all seasons; Its characteristic comes from
the working of the different types of cotton of which it is composed.
A fabric also well suited to all seasons; it is characterized by
a texture which is perceived as diagonal lines which may emerge
to varying degrees.
Characterized by a weave of one line of texture for every two of
warp; the effect looking at this fabric is of very small points
of white emerging from a colored background. It can have three different
FINE with a distinct softness can be worn both in the summer
MEDIUM suited for garments more informal and sporty
HEAVY with a notably granular texture, however still soft
Characterized by a texture of alternating bands of white and colored
fibers. It presents itself as an exclusive fabric.
A fabric derived from an evolution of Oxford, the effect is that
of a fairly granular fabric but with a texture that seems to be
formed by many tiny pin points.
A smooth light fabric characterized by finer lines of warp than
those of the texture.
A very light fabric nearly as impalpable as silk.
View the Holl Fabric Collection